It’s no secret that Italy is home to some of the best food and wine in the world. While I love better-known spots such as Rome, Florence and Sicily (I could happily spend the rest of my eating days anywhere in Italy, to be honest), my favourite region for food, natural wines and all-around memorable experiences is Emilia-Romagna.

It’s arguably Italy’s most underrated culinary destination. Known as the birthplace of iconic staples like Parmigiano Reggiano, prosciutto di Parma, and balsamic vinegar, this region is a treasure trove of authentic flavours and age-old traditions.

In the summer of 2024, I spent almost three weeks outside Parma city, visiting Bologna, Modena and various smaller towns and villages throughout the region in my never-ending quest to eat and drink the best of what Emilia-Romagna had to offer. 

As always, chatting with locals will serve you well. Our nightly routine of going to the same natural wine bar in Parma resulted in priceless contacts for small, natural wine producers in the region, country restaurants we would never have stumbled upon otherwise, chats with incredible chefs who also frequented the bar, and tickets for Emilia Sur Lì, a natural wine festival held in the grassy gardens of a 10th-century castle. 

I have to admit that being able to speak somewhat decent Italian served me well here, but my partner doesn’t speak it at all and he was often the one who struck up the most lively conversations!

I recommend you rent a car to get around because a lot of the best restaurants and producers are located in the countryside. We flew from Dublin to Bologna, spent a couple of days there and then got the train to Parma where we picked up the car for what would turn out to be the most enjoyable gastronomic trip I’ve ever had.

Beyond the food, Emilia Romagna’s cities are steeped in history and culture. Bologna, the region’s capital, is known as both “La Grassa” (the fat one) for its cuisine and “La Dotta” (the learned one) for its prestigious university.

Here are some highlights of the best places to eat and drink, plus things to do in the region.

When to go:

People in Parma thought I was insane when I told them I was staying for two weeks in mid-July. Yes, it’s very hot. But what better excuse for cooling down with a Spritz or Lambrusco? Despite the heat, I would definitely return here in the summer.

All of the towns in Emilia-Romagna are much quieter in the summer (note: don’t visit in August, as this is when most locals take their annual holidays and many restaurants close for a few weeks) since most tourists flock to Italy’s better-known beach or lakeside destinations, so you’ll have a better chance of booking any last-minute day trip activities or restaurant walk-ins.

There are also plenty of river bathing spots and waterfalls in the region to cool down at. Plus, you have the bonus of seeing the sunflower fields in full bloom in June/July – DM us at @thetaste_ie for map coordinates!

Locals told me that winter/spring is the best time to visit (and with such a hearty cuisine of broths, ragu and stews, this makes sense), but do note that places will likely be quite busy. 

Where to go:

I suggest choosing a base city (either Bologna, Parma or Modena) and venturing out from there to other places in the region. Even if you only visit for a few days, most places are reachable within less than an hour or two drive or train.

Bologna

Bologna is a must-visit for any food lover. The city’s food scene is as vibrant as its medieval architecture and terracotta rooftops.

Bologna is the birthplace of iconic pasta dishes like Tagliatelle al Ragù (often known as spaghetti Bolognese) and Tortellini in Brodo (delicate pasta parcels served in a warm broth). 

I’ve been to Bologna several times over the last decade, and while I do love it (and it is home to some of the best and most famous restaurants in the region), I feel a couple of days here is enough. It’s a little more touristy and busier than other cities in Emilia-Romagna.

Modena

Small but mighty, Modena is famous for two things: traditional Balsamic vinegar and luxury cars like Ferrari and Lamborghini. It’s a city that balances gourmet food with understated charm. 

You’ll easily stroll around the city centre in one evening, so I would say that perhaps this is better for a day trip after a visit to a local Balsamic producer.

Parma

Parma is the beating heart of Italian gastronomy, home to two of Italy’s most famous food exports: Prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano Reggiano. 

When I think of everything I love most about Italy and its food – the focus on incredible local produce, the dedication to preserving traditional recipes yet pushing boundaries with elevated dishes and new wines – Parma ticks all the boxes.

I spent two weeks in a beautiful loft in a converted farmhouse, which is about a 10-15 minute drive from Parma city centre. Rates start from €150 a night and the host Anna-Maria will cook breakfast on request (it’s simple but delicious). 

Where to eat:

Parma

Da Pepén: This hole-in-the-wall sandwich shop specialises in the local delicacy, horse tartar. Don’t knock it ’til you’ve tried it. There’s also a range of Italian meats, cheese and veggies if you want to keep it classic.

Bel Grano Focaccia: For Florence-style focaccia sandwiches (crusty, airy and light), Bel Grano is my top pick. I went here at least five times during my stay – the Mortadella with pistachio crema is a must-order.

Cortex Bistro: Another repeat dinner favourite – Cortex is all about elevated regional cuisine mixed with a touch of Asian flavours, artfully plated. This is Michelin star level cooking, with dishes such as rabbit ravioli with egg yolk and kefir.

Osteria il Norcino: Located just north of Parma city, this is a proper old school Italian osteria that specialises in premium cuts of beef and cures their own meats. The local cured pork speciality Culatello di Zibello is a must-order.

Trattoria Del Tribunale: Tucked down a little side alley you’ll find some of the best, simple-but-divine pasta dishes. The Parmesan risotto and trio of stuffed ravioli was a highlight. They also do delicious gnoccho fritto (fried pasta dough bites) that make for a great snack while you’re perusing the menu.

I Tri Siochett: It can be hard to get a table here, so I suggest phoning ahead as it’s hugely popular with locals. I Tri Siochett (‘the three fools’) focuses on regional Emilia-Romagnan dishes with local produce. The Bargnolino here – which is an Italian variation of sloe gin – is the perfect digestif.

Fieno: Located in a beautifully resorted farm building on the outskirts of Parma, Fieno is a modern Parma restaurant with a great selection of natural wines.

Bologna

Trattoria Mulino Bruciato: It’s hard to find somewhere decent to eat after arriving into Bologna late (most places close around 10pm for food), but on the way into the city from the airport make a stop here. It’s proper country cooking and has been family-run for generations.

Pigro: Pigro is an amazing sandwich shop that serves piadina (Bologna flatbread sandwich) and crescentine (fried dough) stuffed with a variety of local meats and cheese. Get the mortadella with a glass of sparkling Lambrusco.

Sfoglia Rina: Yes, you’ll be queuing a while to get a table here, but it’s worth the wait. Serving handmade pasta since 1963, Sfoglia is consistently known as one of the best spots in Bologna for pasta dishes. Alongside traditional regional pastas, the weekly menu includes creative twists such as ravioli stuffed with oriental pork belly , Chinese cabbage, peanuts and soy sauce. There’s also a counter at the front where you can buy their homemade fresh pasta.

ZeroQinquantino: This is a great option for small plates, charcuterie and snacks. The atmosphere is always buzzing and the wine list is excellent.

Grassilli: A charming intimate restaurant where not much has changed since first opening in 1944, Grassilli serves handmade pastas from the region, hearty mains and an impressive wine list of local wines. It’s perfect for date night.

Osteria Angolo degli Orefici: Open since the 1970s, Osteria Angolo degli Orefici probably hasn’t changed much and that’s exactly why it’s so good. It perfectly showcases simple Bologna specialities.

Cremeria la Vecchia Stalla: No trip to Italy is complete without gelato, and this place is my favourite in Bologna. The pistachio with Cervia salt is too good to share.

Modena

Erbavoglio: For a region that is so famous for its meat and cheese, Erbavoglio stands out with its vegetarian and vegan focus. Several chefs in the region recommended this restaurant for its fresh and modern dishes.

Osteria Francescana: This three Michelin star restaurant is known for its unique dishes and ingredients. Voted the World’s best restaurant in 2016 and 2018, and featured on Chef’s Table’s opening episode, you’ll be lucky to get a booking but I hear it’s well worth the effort. (Note: I went to the sister restaurant Franceschetta58 and didn’t rate it, but several locals told me that Osteria Francescana is exceptional).

Emilia-Romagna region (all worth the drive!):

Antica Trattoria Carra – Vianino: I can’t say enough good things about this beautiful restaurant in the small village of Vianino. It was quite possibly one of the best meals I’ve ever had. It has views of the Apennines and a small but superb menu that changes pretty much daily. The head chef here worked at Michelin restaurants in Italy and London and brings his skills to this low-key gem.

Bitter – Piacenza: Bitter was recommended by the owner of Solenghi winery (more on that below). The menu is quite meat-focused, with unique dishes such as donkey stew and grilled oxtail. Everything here is fantastic, so leave your inhibitions at the door and taste whatever your server suggests. All of the wines here are natural and there’s some interesting bottles to try.

Ristorante La Valle – Fidenza: This is the epitome of Emilia Romagnan cooking, with a focus on local dishes cooked to an extremely high standard. It’s charming and bustling and everything a great Italian countryside restaurant should be.

Hostaria da Ivan con Locanda – Fontanelle: Located in a lovely little guesthouse, this restaurant with rooms has incredible produce from local suppliers, with culatello, spalla cruda and prosciutto, as well as handmade pasta dishes such as tortellini with dandelion, and Parmese specialties such as tripe with Parmigiana.

La Longrola Agriturismo – Bassa: This farm restaurant raises their own Black Parma pigs, so you can be sure the charcuterie here is next level. Bread, egg pasta, focaccia, sweets and preserves are all produced by the farm and every Sunday they host a family-style dinner.

Where to drink

Parma

Enoteca Tabarro: Run by the knowledgable Diego Sorba, Tabarro became my evening ritual when in Parma – either for a small bite to eat (the menu of small plates changes daily) and a glass of wine or for a full bottle. They are championing the natural wine movement in the region and all their wine is natural and/or organic. Staff here are brilliant and will suggest something new and interesting to try on every visit.

Tra L’uss s L’asa: Another cosy little wine bar, Tra L’uss s L’asa serves snacks and sandwiches. Most of the wines here are natural, and the majority from the region.

Choice Cocktail Bar: I would move to Parma just for the cocktails here. They do an incredible twist on a Negroni with Parmesan-washed gin and a touch of Balsamico for a cocktail that opens up your tastebuds – perfect for a pre-dinner aperitivo.

HYPE Bar: For when you just want a chill beer in a casual setting, HYPE Bar ticks all the boxes. It’s always buzzing with locals (mainly students), and the owner will happily suggest a new craft beer to try from their revolving taps. It’s fun, open late and is a good shout for a nightcap.

Bologna

Antica Drogheria Calzolari: This gourmet store is also a charming wine bar, with a selection of over 2,000 bottles to choose from. It’s generally standing room only in this dark wooden bar, so just squish in at the counter and enjoy.

Café Rubik: Café Rubik is Amaro heaven – you won’t find a selection like this anywhere else in the city. They have endless Amaros to try, with excellent Amaro and vermouth-based cocktails too. By day, it also serves coffee and fresh pastries.

Modena

Molto Enotecatipica: A must-visit for natural wines and good vibes. The owners stick by the motto “per offrirvi molto, non possiamo avere tutto” (“in order to offer you much, we can’t have everything”), so expect a well-curated list and some funky new wines to try.

Zero5Nove: Excellent value for aperitivo, wine and cocktails, this is a great place to come before dinner. The Lambrusco here is super tasty (my only regret was not taking a photo of the bottle!).

Elio Park: Located in the leafy surroundings of Sandro Pertini park, this bar offers a laid-back beer hall atmosphere. It’s casual and fun, with a decent range of cocktails and wine.

What to do (and my top picks for where to do it!)

Parmigiano tour and tasting*

*Note that ‘caseficios’ are where the Parmigiano is stored to mature after production, so this is where you’ll see the giant rows of cheese wheels.

• Caseficio Consorzio Produttori – Parma: This local caseficio is on the outskirts of Parma and does daily tours of its storage facilities and Parmigiano tastings. There’s a lovely little shop selling local products and they age cheese from nearby producers.
• Societá Agricola Saliceto – Mulazzano Ponte: Come here for a tour of the cheesemaking facilities and farm. This is a collective of local farmers who make their Parmigiano and fresh ricotta here daily.

Balsamic vinegar tasting

• Azienda Agricola Leonardi Giovanni – Modena: Acetaia Leonardi has been making balsamic vinegar in Modena, Italy since 1871 and they are still one of the few producers to own the land where the grapes grow. The farm setting is absolutely beautiful, and during the tour you will visit the huge barrels and old casks (there’s even one of the original casks from its first production) of Leonardi ancient rooms, learning all phases of production and tasting various ages of the balsamico.

Winery day trip

• La Stoppa – Rivergaro: La Stoppa is probably the most well-known natural winery in the region, and for good reason – it’s really great. The 19th-century estate produces some truly excellent, funky wines and you can book a visit to wander the vineyards, the vegetable garden, the wood, the cellar, and taste their wines.
• Solenghi – Corano: We had a magical day at this small family winery (started by father Gaetano in the 1980s and now led by son Nicola), who are famous within Emilia-Romagna for their natural approach. They don’t do official visits, but phone in advance and Nicola (who is fluent in English) will welcome you over for an afternoon of wine tasting and local meats and cheese. They don’t sell their wine outside of Italy, so stock up on a few bottles to bring home.
• Quarticello – Montecchio Emilia: From his family’s vineyards in Montecchio Emilia, Roberto Maestri makes a handful of sparkling wines which embody everything I love about the region. Again, it’s a small production so they don’t do official tours, but get in touch with them if you would like to stop by for a tasting.

Shop for gourmet Italian produce

Parma:

• Salumeri Garibaldi Srl Parma
• La Prosciutteria

Bologna:

• Drogheria Gilberto
• Tamburini
• Le Sfogline (handmade pasta shop and cookery school)

Swim in rivers and waterfalls

• Golfrone Waterfall
• Bobbio beach
• Piscine Naturali del Fiume Ceno
• La Piscina della Badessa

Explore ancient castles

• Castello Di Torrechiara
• Castello di Vigoleno
• Palazzo Ducale

Sarah Clayton-Lea is the Editor of TheTaste, where she writes about all things food, drink and travel. Sarah previously founded Big 7 Travel, a travel and hospitality media company.

Sarah is also the former Editor of Food&Wine Ireland, with extensive experience reporting on the hospitality industry in Ireland and abroad. Prior to her digital media career, Sarah worked in the hospitality industry in Dublin and New York.

Follow her at @sazzyclay on Instagram .