It’s no secret that West Cork is a food lovers’ paradise, and on a recent trip down to Baltimore I was reminded yet again just how many incredible restaurants and food producers are to be found here.

From a 2 Michelin-starred restaurant to creamy pints of Murphys by the fire, as well as countless local producers showcasing their goods at farmers markets and workshops, a trip to West Cork is a must-do for any gourmand.

Here’s a taste of where I went – I found it hard to drag myself away from this foodie haven…

Eat

Wildflour, Innishannon

This beautiful little bakery in the village of Innishannon is small yet mighty. They serve naturally leavened bread, hand-made pastries (get there early for the best pick – they regularly create new seasonal pastries, both sweet and savoury, such as flaky layers of pastry with smoked Gubbeen cheese and Guinness rarebit), plus quality coffee from the guys at Stone Valley Clonakilty.

Glandore Inn, Glandore

For harbour views and freshly caught seafood, the Glandore Inn is a sure bet. This quaint gastropub in Glandore is perfectly situated by the water at the fishing port of Union Hall and serves “seafood and steaks with a view”. 

Dishes change depending on what’s available but expect hearty classics done right, such as Homemade seafood chowder with house-made brown bread, fresh crab salad, lobster, mussels and fish pie.

FYI, it’s only open during the seasonal summer months, so plan accordingly.

Dede, Baltimore

Chef Ahmet Dede’s refined take on street food ‘îçli köfte’ won Dede at Customs House Baltimore not one, but two Michelin stars and it’s clear to see why the Michelin inspectors were so impressed.

Dede focuses on Turkish flavours using local ingredients and the result is nothing short of magic.

The Tasting Menu (€180 for dinner, €100 for lunch) changes regularly, with dishes such as Lobster with grapefruit, zeytinyagli, root vegetables; Halibut, with sorrel, vine leaves, seaweed, razor clams, and Barbecue Duck with sour cherry, tarhana & beetroot.

Wine pairings are available, as well as a non-alcoholic pairing.

Baba’de, Baltimore

Baba’de (meaning ‘Baby Dede’), is the little sibling of Dede, with a more casual – yet just as excellent – offering 

A roaring stove and exposed shingle brick create a warm and cosy atmosphere which is amplified by co-owner (of Dede also) Maria Archer’s passion and knowledge. 

Dishes on our visit included Flaggy Shore oysters with a Turkish-fusion dressing; whole West Cork blue lobster; Lahmacun, which is a BBQ flat bread with beef, lamb, garlic yoghurt and isot mint, as well as ‘Babe’de’-style fried chicken with a brown butter dip.

Baba’de also serves a weekend breakfast/brunch menu, which I look forward to trying on my next visit.

The Algiers, Baltimore

This lovely gastropub does classic comfort food with a twist – think Californian and Mexican flavours meets the Wild Atlantic Way. The Algiers is inspired by Baltimore’s piratical past, with Moorish influences in the decor for an Aladdin’s Cave sort of vibe.

On a windy, wet night, it was the perfect place to warm up. The menu includes mussels with a Harissa broth, several different corn tacos (the beer-battered haddock is excellent) and a mac and cheese made with local Cork cheeses.

Drink

Bushes Bar, Baltimore

I spent more time in this family-run pub than I’d like to admit, but with typical Irish wintery weather raging outside, Bushes Bar was a regular retreat for a pint of Murphys beside the fire and the Irish Times crossword.

Food is simple but delicious, with a range of made-to-order sandwiches including chicken salad, egg salad and roast beef. At €4.80 each they’re great value too – it’s been a while since we’ve seen prices like that. There’s also open sandwiches with local smoked mackerel, smoked salmon and dressed crab (a must-order), and toasties with whatever you like inside.

The Jolly Roger, Sherkin Island

This quintessential Irish pub is located on Sherkin Island, a short 10-minute ferry ride from Baltimore. You can make the most of the views from the island on your way here, and they also serve hearty pub grub including seafood chowder.

It’s only open Friday-Sunday, so plan ahead.

Cocktail Bar at Liss Ard Estate, Skibbereen

I absolutely adore a good hotel bar, and the bar at Liss Ard Estate is one of my new favourites. Cocktails are perfectly mixed, the fire is roaring and the sofas are soft and deep. 

There’s a brilliant range of books to flick through, ranging from art and design to history, plus a selection of board games to play – the perfect activity for a post-dinner nightcap.

Do

Woodcock Smokery

The legendary Sally Barnes has been smoking wild fish in West Cork for more than 44 years, and a visit to ‘The Keep’ at Woodcock Smokery is a food experience I’ll be thinking about for a long time. Sally Barnes set up the Keep to exchange knowledge and traditional skills through masterclasses, coastal foraging workshops, and events. 

I did the Full Day Fish Smoking course (€250), learning all about the fundamentals of preparing, curing and smoking a variety of wild fish. What you smoke depends on the day – we had a whole halibut and monkfish tails.

The day was filled with fascinating insights into the fishing industry in Ireland, the importance of sustainable fishing and wild fish, and a tasty sharing lunch of smoked fish, salads, West Cork cheeses, bread, pickles, smoked fish and veggie broth, and a big slab of Field’s Skibbereen tea cake with a mug of Barry’s.

I’ll be taking the skills I learnt throughout the day to my own kitchen, where I’ll definitely be hot smoking fish at home sometime.

Skibbereen Farmers Market

Held every Saturday from 9.30am to 2pm, Skibb Farmers Market showcases the very best of local producers, food stalls and artisan crafts. There’s antique stands, art prints, vintage clothing and more.

The food is the real highlight though, ranging from Fingal Ferguson’s bacon (and his other smoked products) to local Cork cheesemakers, fresh and smoked fish, local honey, organic vegetables and other goodies.

The burger from The Badass BBQ food truck was the best I’ve had in Ireland – a soft, floury bap with thick cut bacon and Gubbeen cheese.

Stay

Lough Hyne Cottage

The Cottage at Lough Hyne Cottage is an architecturally designed wood cabin situated on the shore of Lough Hyne, Ireland’s only marine nature reserve. We had a gorgeous stay here. 

There’s a cosy mezzanine overlooking Lough Hyne which is ideal for reading or star gazing at night, and on the deck you’ll find a wood-fired hot tub (ask hosts Stephen and Claire if they have any seaweed you can use in it!) and a BBQ.

Lough Hyne Cottage is also a growing organic farm and they bake woodfired sourdough each Sunday for the Baltimore community market. I brought down some cooking apples from my partner’s dad’s vegetable plot and in return Stephen kindly gave us some caramelised onion focaccia and a chocolate brownie that still pops into my mind at least once a week – that’s how good it was.

Liss Ard Estate

This 163-acre estate includes beautiful gardens, a 40-acre lake, and the fantastic Sky Garden – a giant earth-and-stone crater lined with emerald grass, the work of renowned artist James Turrell. There’s also a lakeside wellness centre with wood-fired saunas that look out across the lake, and row boat and kayaks for use during your stay. 

The estate was recently bought over by American investors, and it is now a member of Relais & Chateaux and Ireland’s Blue Book. The main building is a Georgian-style manor, which houses the bar and restaurant (featuring local Cork produce that’s beautifully cooked).

My sole regret was only booking one night here – it’s the type of hotel that you really don’t want to leave.

Sarah Clayton-Lea is the Editor of TheTaste, where she writes about all things food, drink and travel. Sarah previously founded Big 7 Travel, a travel and hospitality media company.

Sarah is also the former Editor of Food&Wine Ireland, with extensive experience reporting on the hospitality industry in Ireland and abroad. Prior to her digital media career, Sarah worked in the hospitality industry in Dublin and New York.

Follow her at @sazzyclay on Instagram .