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TheTaste Elusive Epicurean

The Elusive Epicurean: A ‘Not Quite A Gossip Column’ About The Irish Dining Scene – February Edition

Finally, February is upon us and like greedy hedgehogs, it feels a bit like we are emerging from January hibernation with a brand new appetite for all things food and drinks related. So long dry January, I’m sure you were great, although I wouldn’t know. Same to you veganuary, I never really took the time to get to know you, and now it feels pointless even to bother.

To those who did navigate the minefield of January restraint, I salute you. My willpower when it comes to food and drinks has never been something to brag about. After all, what is the point in guilty pleasure without the pleasure?

The Movers and Shakers

So what’s new in the world of food? Well, the news is good for Dublin 8 residents as Scéal Bakery returns to The Wine Pair in Dublin 8, bringing their excellent sourdough and pastries with them. Get there between 10 am – 1 pm every Saturday, although earlier is always better. In nearby Francis Street, Bold Boy Bakery from the team behind Two Pups Coffee has opened its doors, so Dublin 8 is certainly thriving with buttery bakes and quality bread. 

In Ballycotton, Cork, the much loved waterside restaurant, Cush, has served its last meal in Ballycotton, with plans to relocate the restaurant to nearby Midleton. The guesthouse and bar will continue by the pier, with a date to be announced soon for the Midleton opening. 

When it comes to nabbing bargains, there appear to be plenty around with Coppinger bringing us its new ‘menu del dia’ which offers diners a two-course lunch for €15, or three courses for €20 with the option to add a glass of wine for €5 making it the perfect place for a sneaky wine soaked lunch. The weekly changing menu is available from Wednesday – Friday. Allta is also offering a worker’s lunch from 12.30 pm – 2 pm, Thursday and Friday with two courses for €37, and three courses for €42, while in Lottie’s, Rathmines, enjoy a snack, a main dish and a glass of wine for just €29, from 5 pm-6 pm Wednesday to Friday. 

In some much needed good news, the team behind Variety Jones are due to open their new restaurant any day now. A recent Instagram post announced that the opening was scheduled for the end of January, but anyone who has ever had construction work done knows that deadlines mean nothing. Nada. Zilch.  Alma in Portobello has also announced a second location in the pipeline, while in Belfast, Neighbourhood Café has opened a second (stunning) branch. Stop by the next time you are in Belfast for a house-made breakfast naan with crispy bacon, fried egg, garlic cream cheese, chilli jam, pickled red onion and coriander which gives very Dishoom vibes. 

Sole Seafood & Grill also has big plans for 2025 with the restaurant due to undergo extensive expansion plans that will see the city centre restaurant and bar transform from a 5,500 sq. ft. restaurant and bar to an impressive 11,000 sq. ft. premises, designed by award-winning Interior Designer Graham Barrow.

In sad news for cheese lovers, Iciar in the Frascati Centre in Blackrock has announced its closure, although the branch at Whelehan’s Wine will remain open for all your cheesy needs. Phew.  On March 5th, The Pig’s Ear will be making a return to its original building on Nassau Street, but fear not, Lotus Eaters is not to be relegated to the past. Instead, it will move to a shiny new premises with details soon to be announced. 

Finally, Kinsale is getting ready to welcome a new cocktail bar. All Apologies is set to be a wine and cocktail bar which feels totally appropriate to the town…..

Wishful Snacking

I have become obsessed with this Bloody Mary Salt from Fat Tomato which has a myriad of uses, apart from the obvious and in Dublin, Sorn Bakehouse has been making my life difficult with its constant images of ‘too pretty to eat but must eat immediately’ bakes. Malted vanilla or Comte custard tart anyone? Pick up is in Spencer Dock or local delivery is available. The condiments at Noma Projects are also on my pantry wish list, particularly the corn yuzu hot sauce, the mushroom garum and the pumpkin seed praline.

Book It

Blink and you’ll miss it, but Orwell Road is hosting an industry night celebrating all things Fiorbhia Farm on February 24th at 6.30 pm. €50 p.p. buys you a five-course tasting menu WITH PAIRED WINES. It’s a no-brainer. 2025 is also the year that sees All Shucked Up, make its debut. A Guinness, oyster and music festival taking place in Howth from February 28th – March 2nd, you can expect oysters, music from Ryan Sheridan plus a host of other acts, and of course, copious amounts of creamy pints.

A “Not Quite A Gossip Column’ About The Irish Dining Scene by The Elusive Epicurean: February Edition

The Elusive Epicurean: A food loving, wine drinking bon vivant in the sometimes louche world of food writing. Loves to cook, prefers to eat. 

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