Just a quick flight to Charles de Gaulle and a scenic train ride from Paris lies the enchanting Loire Valley in the Touraine region, a land brimming with fairytale châteaux, sun-drenched vineyards, and culinary wonders that would make even the most discerning palate swoon. When you receive an invitation to visit such a wonderland, the answer must always be bien sur.
The Loire Valley offers the kind of food and wine trip you’ll be smug telling people about until the end of time, like Disneyland for lovers of the finer things. Here’s a glimpse into my whimsical adventure through this captivating region, with a few helpful tips on getting there and around, but most importantly, the inside scoop on where to eat, drink and stay in Touraine.
Getting There
From Charles de Gaulle Airport, it couldn’t be simpler to reach the Loire Valley by train, and as tough as it is to resist a Parisian jaunt, I can’t recommend exploring more far flung French destinations via rail highly enough. Simply hop on the high-speed TGV at the Aéroport Charles de Gaulle 2 TGV station, located within the airport complex. The TGV will whisk you away to St-Pierre-des-Corps station, the main railway hub for Tours and the surrounding region. From there, you can easily connect to other destinations in the Loire Valley via local trains or buses.
You could attempt to devise the route yourself, but I highly recommend getting in touch with Mario of Val de Loire Travel, the perfect local guide to all things wonderful in Touraine. He will even accept requests for classic French tunes like Champs Elysees in his Mercedes shuttle without complaint.
Eat
If you only need one reason to visit the Loire Valley, let’s start with the food. Unsurprisingly, the Loire Valley proved to be a culinary paradise, where the freshest hyper-local produce was transformed into rustic and indulgent French fare at every turn, each day more delicious than the last.
For the gastronomes amongst us, a visit to Les Jardiniers, a Michelin Green Star restaurant nestled within its own sprawling truffle and vegetable farm, is non-negotiable. Chef Martin Bolaers’ ingenuity shone through his innovative plant-forward menu, where every dish brought to life the bounty of the farm, and of course, many featured their very own homegrown truffles – magnifique.
A pre-lunch tour of the gardens and farm offered a fascinating glimpse into the source of Galland’s culinary magic, showcasing the meticulous care and attention that went into growing the produce singing from each and every plate. Here it isn’t hard to see why Michelin have awarded the sustainability seal of approval, reserved for restaurants “that combine culinary excellence with outstanding eco-friendly commitments.” Allez les verts.
For a similarly enticing fine dining experience, Michelin Guide recommended Auberge du Bon Laboureur under chef Antoine Jeudi is home to contemporary French cuisine crafted with seasonal produce from their own vegetable gardens and the local Chenonceau markets, resulting in exceptionally flavourful dishes. This five star guest house cum hotel is also home to a cosy cellar bar where I experienced my first ever taste of French whiskey. While the title of finest butter remains a subject of contention between France and Ireland, I can now confirm we firmly have the crown in the realm of whiskey!
In the unexpectedly but decidedly hip city of Tours, the capital of the Loire Valley and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, you would be silly to miss out on a culinary adventure with the inimitable Sheena Dignam, a name you might recognise from Galway Food Tours. Her Food Tours in Tours was the most fantastic experience, rambling through the streets of this charming Cathedral city, discovering its gastronomic treasures.
I won’t give away all the little insider tips on where to eat, drink and be merry in Tours, but rest assured we indulged in the most delectable array of bites in several gorgeous wine bars, from uber garlicky escargots, to bountiful cheese platters and foie gras stuffed dried figs I am still thinking about several weeks later. Every morsel was perfectly paired with local wine par excellence as standard, and Sheena and her sister Niamh (who owns the perfectly monikered The Pale Irish pub in Tours too) guided us through the pairings and pitstops like old friends in the know.
The most delicious moment on this perfect tour of Tours had to be savouring exquisite local pork rillettes, perfectly paired with crunchy cornichons and a chilled glass (ok, several) of extra brut sparkling Vouvray, while watching the sun set over the Loire river. Suffice to say, no trip to Tours will be complete without this brilliant evening firmly fixed in your itinerary, and it was a real highlight of my visit to Touraine.
At the magnificent Château de Noizay, I surrendered to my Francophile cravings with a decadent feast of escargot, perfectly cooked steak frites, and a selection of the finest cheeses. This homage to fromage was second only to the gasp-worthy cheese trolley rolled out at Château de Rochecotte. Here, my excitable query about the presence of truffle in a slab of veined brie was met with a deadpan Francophone “non” the likes of which I will never forget, like a brilliantly audible eyeroll. To be fair, it did nothing to curb my enthusiasm about hand selecting every local cheese my heart desired, no truffle required.
I can also highly recommend lunching at the refined Franco-Italian L’Orangerie restaurant at Château de Chenonceau, housed in a richly decorated, chandelier-dotted dining room nestled in the opulent castle’s extensive gardens. Here we indulged in French classics including an utterly perfect craquelin-coated eclair overflowing with creme diplomat and chocolate ganache. What could be sweeter?
Drink
Vouvray, the sometimes sparkling and always sublime star of the Loire Valley, was pure pleasure in all its many forms. While the crisp and refreshing extra brut sparkled with aplomb, we also discovered traditional Vouvray, exclusively crafted with Chenin Blanc or Pineau de Loire, the only grape variety in the Vouvray appellation for both “Fines Bullles” and still wines. That said, Chinon, crafted with Cabernet Franc, provided plenty of joy too.
At Château de Valmer, we embarked on a Vouvray adventure with a tasting that showcased the diverse expressions of this celebrated wine, alongside a very pleasant Loire Rose fashioned with Grolleau grape. The tasting was paired with a guided exploration of the AOC, offering insights into the unique terroir and winemaking traditions that make Vouvray so special.
Here you can wander through vineyards, exploring the grounds and enchanting Italian-style hanging gardens, adorned with fountains, statues, balustrades and a charming kitchen garden overflowing with edible flowers, herbs and fruits. Here, a pilgrimage to the 16th-century troglodytic chapel on the grounds was a highlight, and I of course offered up a prayer for yet more Vouvray, which was quickly answered.
My Vouvray voyage continued with a journey into the cool depths of the Cave de Vouvray, where visitors uncover the secrets behind the iconic wine’s production. Here we ventured deep underground to a 13 degree Tuffeau-walled cave of wonders to marvel at the process from start to finish, before tasting an array of vintages and collectively contemplating buying a second suitcase to transport several dozen eye-wateringly cheap bottles home with us.
For a taste of the Loire’s broader vinous pleasures, from crisp Sauvignon Blancs to robust Cabernet Francs, a delightful wine and food pairing afternoon at Tasting with Nivard. is a must. Led by the incredibly passionate and lovely Geoffrey Nivard, an expert in charcuterie, cheese, and naturally, wine, an afternoon here is unmissable.
Geoffrey shared his infectious enthusiasm for the Loire Valley’s terroir in all its delicious incarnations, in an unrivalled setting on the banks of the Loire, but more importantly, he shared one of the finest charcuterie plates I have yet to encounter, and introduced us to Art is an Ale local beer, too. Tastings cost just £25 per person, and can also be booked and enjoyed in various nearby châteaux. You will leave feeling like it was money very well spent.
Stay
There is no shortage of opulent accommodation in which to luxuriate in the Touraine region, and unsurprisingly many of these take the form of fairytale-like châteaux, each a haven of luxury and history.
At Château de Rochecotte, an architectural beauty, formerly home to the Duchess de Dino and the Prince de Talleyrand, lavish interiors seamlessly blended the château’s rich old world charms with contemporary style. My Versailles-like mirror-walled suite here ranks as one of the most beautiful hotel rooms I have found myself in in recent times.
A breakfast fit for French aristocracy awaited the next day, complete with an ice bucket of local sparkling Vouvray and a beautiful patisserie selection from the in-house boulangerie. Paired with the aforementioned cheese trolley moment, I had investigated a return visit before our van even left the front gates.
For a truly indulgent escape steeped in historical charm, the powder pink boudoir of the Diane de Poitiers Suite at Château de Noizay was a real treat, a tranquil haven I was sad to leave indeed. The château is classically appointed throughout and feels like stepping back in time, salubrious but not stuffy, and a beautiful place to retire and lounge after a long day of wine tasting.
The magical Château Louise de La Vallière, a Renaissance masterpiece transformed into a luxurious retreat, was the last word in decadence, offering guests an ” invitation to a voyage outside of time.” With its ultra glamorous Champagne Bar (because Louis XV used “sparkling wine” as a remedy for his tiredness and melancholy, which is understandable), well executed classic French cuisine, and a secluded garden pool oasis and spa with one-of-a-kind privacy loungers, it would be the perfect country retreat to unwind and soak up the Loire Valley’s sunshine, albeit a very tough one to leave.
Its prestigious Relais & Châteaux status, earned in just one year, is a testament to the tremendous attention to detail throughout this beautifully restored bucket list property. Rooms start from 330 per night, which feels more than reasonable for the next-level opulence on offer here. I’ll be back.
Do
The Loire Valley was bursting with delightful excursions outside of my usual food-focused itinerary. I embarked on a châteaux-hopping adventure, exploring each estate’s unique charm and history. At the Château and Gardens of Villandry, we enjoyed a private tour with the owner, Henri Carvallo, taking in the magnificent original Renaissance decor throughout and wandering the vast, pristine geometric gardens, living la vie en rose.
Alongside free-roaming peacocks, who were equal parts magnificent and frightening, we explored the enchanting grounds and marvelled at the eccentric sculptures at Château du Rivau on a guided tour with the inimitable proprietress and curator Patricia Laigneau.
One of the oldest châteaux in the Loire Valley, this story-book estate includes many striking, artistic homages to Joan of Arc, who collected her steed from the stables of le Rivau before the siege of the city of Orléans, as well as a fascinating collection of contemporary art. This would be a wonderful spot to take a picnic (consisting of cheese, charcuterie and Vouvray, naturally) or plan your visit around lunchtime to treat yourself at the stunning Jardin Secret restaurant.
In addition to marvelling at the pristine gardens and architectural wonder of a château built atop an arched bridge over the Loire, you can learn the secrets of ornate floral artistry during a tremendously fun masterclass with Jean François Boucher (MOF, that’s master craftsman of France to you and I) at Château de Chenonceau, and I highly recommend you do, not least so you can swan around the lavish gardens with your very own bouquet afterwards.
Visitors can also roam the fabulous kitchen garden and take an immersive tour of the castle, diving in to its storied past. The scandalous tale of Chenonceau, ‘The Ladies’ Château,’ unfolds as Queen Catherine de Medici, widow of Henry II, ousts Diane de Poitiers, the King’s former mistress, to claim the magnificent property which had been royally gifted to de Poitiers years previously as his favourite lover. The drama!
If all things floral take your fancy, a visit to Jardins Haute Couture is a lovely way to spend an afternoon wandering the breath-taking Italian gardens, literally stopping to smell the roses and breathe in the fresh Loire Valley air. Enjoy a guided tour with owner Coco Miles, and indulge in homemade cakes and botanical cocktails crafted with the garden’s own bounty in the serene setting of a charming hillside manor.
Finally, no trip to Tours would be complete without experiencing the city’s vibrant nightlife. We danced the night away at the Guinguette in Tours sur Loire, a local institution in the form of a colourful, rambling boardwalk packed with bars, casual restaurants and food stands overlooking the Loire. Here the drinks flowed freely, the food was divine, and 90’s tunes filled the air long after the sun set – be warned, it could be a late one here.
The Loire Valley is a destination that truly captures the heart and soul of France, and it certainly won me over very quickly. While we’re all guilty of heading to the typical tourist hotspots, with its rich history, fairytale castles and naturally exquisite food and wine, an off-the-beaten track trip to Touraine deserves a spot on your travel bucket list.
For more information: Visit Tours, the gateway city of the Loire Valley – France (touraineloirevalley.co.uk)
Written by Darina Coffey. Darina was a guest of Touraine Val de Loire.
