Seated by the floor to ceiling glass walls, overlooking a spectacular water feature, it is impossible not to sink into the opulent surroundings of Herald & Devoy, housed in The Osprey Hotel in Naas, Co. Kildare. The particular spot where the restaurant now resides was once part of the foyer. Moving the restaurant to this area has proven to be a task that was very worthwhile undertaking. Drinking in the beautiful views and perusing the concise but tempting food & wine menus is a fine way to spend an evening.
We started with Pan Fried Wexford Scallops – Cauliflower Tempura, Lemon Gel, Smoked Bacon Foam €13.95
Three sweet, buttery, beautifully seared scallops with the clever addition of smoked bacon foam and lemon gel accentuating this delicious fresh seafood starter. Cauliflower Tempura so crisp and light. A real palate pleaser.
Recommended Wine Pairing – Pazo Cilleiro Albariño 2017
A lively golden yellow colour with green reflections. Clean and balanced with citric and white fruit notes with a slight floral aroma. The taste mimics the nose, it is fresh, round and elegant on the palate, with a persistent, refreshing finish.
For our second starter with decided to go for the Pan Fried Wood Pigeon – Carrot & Cardamom, Braised Red Cabbage, Star Anise & Red Wine Reduction €12.95
Succulent meat still magenta in the middle, bursting with the resplendent tartness of braised red cabbage all enveloped in a gusto of star anise & red wine reduction.
Recommended Wine Pairing – Old Coach Road Pinot Noir 2017
Ripe summer berry fruit notes and brambly savoury characters. Fine grained spicy oak tannins complement the plum,thyme and cinnamon notes on the palate. A long flavoursome finish.
On to our main courses, the first of the night was the Baked Fillet of Cod – Fennel Rosti, Buttered Winter Greens, Chive & Lemon Beurre Blanc €21.95
Melt in the mouth, moist cod. Only a fork was needed to encourage this beautiful piece of fish to fall apart. Al dente tender-stem broccoli gave a welcome layer of texture and the fennel rosti was perfectly crisp on the outside and creamy on the inside. Each element of this dish was brought together beautifully by the wonderful chive & lemon buree blanc. Every buttery mouthful was a tongue tingling taste explosion.
Recommended Wine Pairing – Laroche Chablis 2014
Very elegant with wild flower and spicy notes. A compact texture and mineral finish. A wine of superb definition.
Our second choice of main course was a Duo of Duck – Confit Leg, Seared Breast, Colcannon Potato Cake, Butternut Squash, Blackberry Compote €25.95
Confit leg with its extra crispy skin and juicy meat falling off the bone was both tender and packed with flavour. The seared breast cooked to a beautiful shade of blush provided that punch of game every duck lover seeks. Blackberry compote added that much needed touch of tartness. The colcannon potato cake was almost fought over, creamy mash barbed with crunchy kale, sometimes traditional really is best.
Recommended Wine Pairing – Don David Malbec 2017
Vibrant red color with violet notes. Plums, tobacco & oak. Deep concentrated flavours with a very long and pleasant aftertaste due to its rounds and fully ripe tannins.
To finish, we enjoyed two extremely pleasurable desserts, the first of which was the Chocolate & Raspberry Cylinder – White Chocolate Soil, Mango Gel & Baby Mint €8.95
A deliciously decadent chocolate mousse with a wafer thin sponge base. The chocoholic at the table was in heaven!
Our final course of the night was the Lemongrass & Basil Cheesecake – Passion fruit Gel, Chantilly Cream €8.95
Tantalising every taste bud, this indulgent but surprisingly refreshing flavour combination was a superb end to a wonderful dinner.
Dessert Wine Pairing – De Beaumes-De-Venise Muscat 2012
Intense fruity & floral aromas. Deliciously elegant freshness on the palate. Full bodied without excess, and has lingering fruity aromas on a melon and lemon tinged finish.
We had a really enjoyable and well rounded dining experience in Herald & Devoy. We would recommended sampling this new chefs menu. The Osprey has got a serious upgrade in culinary skills and it is definitely worth booking a table in Herald & Devoy.
Our three course dinner for two people came to €112.70 including two glasses of wine.
Herald & Devoy
The Osprey Hotel,
Telephone: 045 8811111
Dinner Menu: https://www.ospreyhotel.ie/_attachment/72306/new_H_D_menu_2019.pdf
REVIEW BY KEITH MAHON