Let Suesey do the Cooking – A Sophisticated Night In
The Kelly family who own and operate Suesey Street, close to the banks of the Grand Canal on Dublin’s Fitzwilliam place, have been serving locally sourced contemporary Irish food for 14 years now. With head chef Cathal Dunne at the helm, this restaurant, quietly tucked away in the basement of a Georgian property, exudes charm while retaining a casual vibe.
Due to the Covid19 restrictions set out on September 19th 2020 Suesey Street is permitted to stay open for bookings in their Garden Room only, with a maximum of 15 diners permitted at any one time. For those who wish to enjoy the food from the Suesey Street kitchen in the comfort of their own home there is an “At Home” menu. On a damp October Saturday with further impending Covid restrictions to look forward to, we were keen to brighten up our weekend with a take on their special 3 course Supper club meal at home.
Order and Collection Process
We called the restaurant directly on Friday afternoon and were greeted by a friendly staff member who took our order over the phone. She advised that we could collect any time between 4 and 6pm on Saturday. There is ample parking outside the restaurant on Fitzwilliam place so with little fuss we were able to pop down the stairs and grab our food boxes which were waiting for us as promised. We were struck by how beautiful the bar is, and made a quick mental note to revisit as soon as the current restrictions are finally lifted.
The food from a fine dining establishment is not something you would normally transport in the boot of your car, so we were keen to see how it travelled and if it was possible to safeguard the precious cargo in a cardboard box. It’s worth noting that said boxes are fully compostable including most of the little boxes and containers inside. A quick check once home revealed all was intact including some straightforward looking instructions for warming up the food.
Replicating the restaurant experience at home
Some of the aforementioned compostable bowls look so good you may be happy enough to eat directly out of them, but we decided to go whole hog and plate everything up, which was made easy by a piece of grease proof paper underneath some of the elements. You can easily whip them out of their respective containers and slide the paper from underneath like a kitchen ninja. The plated dishes looked pretty darn professional it must be said and one could pull the wool over unsuspecting dinner guest’s eyes if they didn’t know where the food had come from.
The SS at-home menu is limited to 2 starters, 2 mains and 2 desserts (plus bonus complimentary bread) so we chose one of each to get a flavor of everything on offer.
From the starters menu I chose the pressed ham with chicken & black pudding terrine which came with some pickled seasonal vegetables and sauce gribiche. It proved to be a winning combo with just the right amount of meat in the terrine for a starter portion. My pescatarian dining partner opted for the cured salmon gravelax with dill, smoked salmon rillettes and trout caviar. The salmon being of impeccable quality, and food envy eyes darting across the dining table.
For mains the Challans duck breast with pickled blackberries, carrots and ginger purée ticked all the meaty Autumnal flavour boxes, but the roast hake with confit fennel, mussels and a buttery saffron velouté stole the show. We didn’t think it would be possible for a partially restaurant-cooked piece of fish to finds its way home, heat itself up and still taste as if it had just been prepared fresh.
On to the desserts and a dinky little Chocolate Mousse with almond sponge and marinated raspberries was perfectly balanced. A classic glazed apple tatin with spiced apple was duly heated and smothered in vanilla curd. Possibly too little pastry here for my liking, but the correct balance of sweetness and acidity was evident in the dish nonetheless. Our coeliac friends will be happy to know that all of the dishes above have gluten free options also. We opted to add a couple of sides (of which there are 5 in total) of Gratin Dauphinoise and a really excellent and ripe selection of cheeses which came with chutney and crackers. We wished we had ordered two!
Suesey Street have managed to achieve the not-so-easy task of executing a simple at-home menu that is reflective of what they do in house and feels like a real treat at home. Head chef Cathal Dunne is serious about seasonality and locally sourced ingredients and we were pleased to discover that you can find out exactly where the meat, poultry, dairy, seafood and produce comes from on their website.
Suesey Street is open Thursday, Friday and Saturday and the only stipulation is that you need to order before 12 midday on the day of your collection with collection between 4 – 6pm. It is not possible to have your food delivered by the restaurant.
WRITTEN BY COLLY MURRAY
Why not try Suesey Street at Home – Enjoy a 3 Course Dinner, beautifully prepared, served with a complimentary selection of breads for only €35pp
– Offer is available from now until Nov 30th 2020 on Thursday, Friday or Saturday only
– Same day orders can be ordered up to 12pm on the day
– Orders can be collected from the restaurant between 4 – 6 pm